TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Week 88 (17th – 23rd November 2008)

Posted in Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 22 November 2008

Current goals may be viewed here.

All climbing training diary entries may be viewed here.

Did some indoor climbing for the first time in weeks. No problems at all with routes and only minimal ones with bouldering. Also did a longer (for me) cycle with no real repercussions. Overall a reasonably positive week.
 

Training Diary
Day Commentary Stats
Monday Rest ankle.  
Tuesday My right ankle was feeling a lot better for the full lay-off and so I thought that it was worth trying some climbing. The idea of falling or jumping off of boulder problems was not however terribly appealing and so I spent 3 hours at The Westway top roping and easy leading. A couple of twinges, but no sharp pain and no crunching sensation in my ankle, so a positive result. My fingers are stronger from all the fingerboard sessions and I can hang most things, even the chalk-covered horrors I was climbing on. However, I seem to have forgotten how to move between holds (plus maybe being rather conservative with my ankle) and need to get this back. Top-roped up to F6a (flashed) and led up to F5+ (flashed).  
Wednesday Ankle slightly sore after climbing and then more so after a 6.5 km walk. Need to make sure that I don’t rush back into things too quickly I guess.  
Thursday Rest ankle.  
Friday 2 hours bouldering at The Arch. First bouldering session since I decided to give the ankle a total rest. No pain or crunching in the joint, but it did start swelling up after a while, so called it a day early. Still paranoid about falling :-(. I found it really easy to hold small holds (a result of the fingerboard sessions I guess), but harder to move between them (both not fully trusting the ankle and a lack of general climbing conditioning). V3 x 2
V4 x 0
V5 x 0
Saturday 24 km MTB (trail) cycle round Richmond Park – have lost quite a bit of fitness, but it wasn’t too bad. Ankle seemed to survive with just a bit of grumbling.  
Sunday Rest ankle.  

 
More of the same next week, a continued gentle reintroduction to my normal routine and see how the ankle copes with it. So far, so good!
 

Training Summary
Cycling Other Cardio Wall
Sessions (1 bouldering, 1 routes)
Road: 0 km Running: 0 km V3: 2
MTB: 24 km     V4: 0
Total: 24 km     V5: 0

 
Progress against Short-term Goals

No outdoor routes this week.
Didn’t hit the 40 km per week goal, but was nevertheless nice to do 24 km in one outing with no adverse impact on the ankle..
Although I am somewhat warily climbing and cycling, running still seems some way off.
No fingerboard sessions, but got to the wall twice: once routes, once bouldering, again without too bad results anklewise.
No outdoor bouldering this week.

 
Progress against Medium-term Goals

Parked for the present due to the ankle.