Fingerboard Session for Punters (revised 2nd March 2008)
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Puntered-down version based on programme at Moonclimbing.com – Climbing, bouldering and training essentials; but done on a Metolius Wood Grips board: –
Changes in blue, additions in red.
- Warm-up
- 30 second dead hangs from Jugs
- 2 pull-ups on Jugs
- Stretch forearms, triceps, shoulders etc.
- Repeat two or three times.
- It is also a good idea to drink water beforehand and to continue sipping it between the sessions.
- First Set
- Double armed dead hang with front three fingers open handed on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 hangs resting 2 minutes between each.
- Off-set dead hang with three fingers of one hand and two of other both on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times with each arm “leading” (4 in total) resting 1.5 minutes between each.
- Off-set dead hang open handed with three fingers of one hand on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets, and four fingers of the other on the Shallow 4 Finger Pocket. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm (6 in total), resting 1 minute between hangs on alternative arms.
- Rest 5 minutes.
- Second set
- Double armed dead hang in full crimp position on the Medium 4 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.
- Repeat previous exercise.
- Off-set dead-hang in full crimp position on the Medium 4 Finger Pocket and Shallow 4 Finger Pocket. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 hangs for each arm (6 in total), resting 1 minute between each.
- Rest 5-8 minutes
- Third set
- 90 degree lock off with Jug for one hand and the Medium 4 Finger Pocket for other. Lock off for between 8-10 seconds. 3 reps for each arm (6 in total), resting 2 minutes between each rep.
- Off-set pull ups, with Jug for one hand and the Medium 4 Finger Pocket for the other. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm (4 in total), resting 1 minute between each.
- Leg lifts on Jugs, complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times. Rest 1 minute between sets.
Fingerboard aficionados may also want to check this out.
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