TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Fingerboard Session for Punters (revised 27th October 2008)

Metolius Wood Grips Fingerboard

Metolius Wood Grips Fingerboard


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Puntered-down version based on programme at Moonclimbing.com – Climbing, bouldering and training essentials; but done on a Metolius Wood Grips board: –

Changes in blue, additions in red.

Have made some minor revisions to the previous session, most notably reducing the rest time between sets to one minute for all exercises, but resting two minutes between the discrete exercises for the harder bits (4b, 6a, and 6b; 4c has a rest after it in any case). I also increased the number of reps in a couple of places.


 

  1. Warm-up
    1. 30 second dead hangs from Jugs
    2. 2 pull-ups on Jugs
    3. Stretch forearms, triceps, shoulders etc.
    4. Repeat two or three times.
    5. It is also a good idea to drink water beforehand and to continue sipping it between the sessions.
  2. First Set
    1. Double armed dead hang with front three fingers open handed on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 4 hangs resting 1 minute between each.
    2. Off-set armed dead hang with three fingers of one hand and two of other both on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 times with each arm “leading” (6 in total) resting 1 minute between each.
    3. Off-set dead hang open handed with three fingers of one hand on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets, and four fingers of the other on the Shallow 4 Finger Pocket. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm (6 in total), resting 1 minute between hangs on alternative arms.
  3. Rest 5 minutes.
  4. Second set
    1. Double armed dead hang in full crimp position on the Medium 4 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 4 hangs resting 1 minute between each.
    2. Off-set dead hangs in full crimp position with one hand on the Medium 4 Finger Pocket and the other on Shallow 4 Finger Pocket. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm (6 in total), resting 1 minute between hangs on alternative arms and 2 minutes after the last rep.
    3. Double armed dead hang in full crimp position on the Shallow Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 6 times, resting one minute between each.
  5. Rest 5-8 minutes
  6. Third set
    1. 90 degree lock off with Deep 3 Finger Pocket for one hand and the Shallow 4 Finger Pocket for other. Lock off for between 8-10 seconds. 3 reps for each arm (6 in total), resting 1 minute between each rep and 2 minutes after the last rep.
    2. Off-set pull ups, with Deep 3 Finger Pocket for one hand and the Shallow 4 Finger Pocket for the other. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 3 sets for each arm (6 in total), resting 1 minute between each and 2 minutes after the last rep.
    3. Leg lifts on Deep 3 Finger Pockets, complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times. Rest 1 minute between sets.

 


 
Fingerboard aficionados may also want to check this out.
 

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