TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Fingerboard Session for Punters (revised 20th October 2008)

Metolius Wood Grips Fingerboard

Metolius Wood Grips Fingerboard


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Puntered-down version based on programme at Moonclimbing.com – Climbing, bouldering and training essentials; but done on a Metolius Wood Grips board: –

Changes in blue, additions in red.

Have so far steered clear of the new Moon board, working up to holding the small crimps on this. However have upped the previous session as it was getting a bit too easy.


 

  1. Warm-up
    1. 30 second dead hangs from Jugs
    2. 2 pull-ups on Jugs
    3. Stretch forearms, triceps, shoulders etc.
    4. Repeat two or three times.
    5. It is also a good idea to drink water beforehand and to continue sipping it between the sessions.
  2. First Set
    1. Double armed dead hang with front three fingers open handed on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 4 hangs resting 2 minutes between each.
    2. Double armed dead hang with three fingers of one hand and two of other both on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times with each arm “leading” (4 in total) resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    3. Off-set dead hang open handed with three fingers of one hand on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets, and four fingers of the other on the Shallow 4 Finger Pocket. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.
  3. Rest 5 minutes.
  4. Second set
    1. Double armed dead hang in full crimp position on the Medium 4 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 4 hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    2. Off-set dead hangs in full crimp position with one hand on the Medium 4 Finger Pocket and the other on Shallow 4 Finger Pocket. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm, resting one minute between hangs on alternative arms.
    3. Double armed dead hang in full crimp position on the Shallow Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 4 times, resting one minute between each.
  5. Rest 5-8 minutes
  6. Third set
    1. 90 degree lock off with Deep 3 Finger Pocket for one hand and the Shallow 4 Finger Pocket for other. Lock off for between 8-10 seconds. 3 reps for each arm, resting 1.5 minutes between each rep.
    2. Off-set pull ups, with Deep 3 Finger Pocket for one hand and the Shallow 4 Finger Pocket for the other. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm (4 in total), resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    3. Leg lifts on Deep 3 Finger Pockets, complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times. Rest one minute between sets.

 
Fingerboard aficionados may also want to check this out.
 

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5 Responses

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  1. […] fingerboard sesssion as per here. Still not that hard, but it probably makes sense to progress gradually to avoid pulley problems. […]

  2. Morgs said, on 27 October 2008 at 9:22 am

    Pete,

    I will try and have a go at your plan when i get back on my board. In the meantime you might want to take a look at the beastmaker boards and related article:

    http://beastmakerblog.blogspot.com/

    i’m thinking of buying one!

  3. trnovice said, on 27 October 2008 at 11:36 am

    Will take a look Morgs – thanks 🙂

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