TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Fingerboard Session for Punters (developed 24th February 2008)

Metolius Wood Grips Fingerboard

Metolius Wood Grips Fingerboard


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Puntered-down version based on programme at Moonclimbing.com – Climbing, bouldering and training essentials; but done on a Metolius Wood Grips board: –

Original fingerboard session.


 

  1. Warm-up

    1. 30 second dead hangs from Jugs
    2. 2 pull-ups on Jugs
    3. Stretch forearms, triceps, shoulders etc.
    4. Repeat two or three times.
    5. It is also a good idea to drink water beforehand and to continue sipping it between the sessions.
  2. First Set

    1. Double armed dead hang with front three fingers open handed on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 hangs resting 2 minutes between each.
    2. Off-set dead hang with three fingers of one hand and two of other both on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 2 times with each arm “leading” (4 in total) resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    3. Off-set dead hang open handed with three fingers of one hand on the Deep 3 Finger Pockets, and four fingers of the other on the Shallow 4 Finger Pocket. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 sets for each arm (6 in total), resting 1 minute between hangs on alternative arms.
  3. Rest 5 minutes.
  4. Second set

    1. Double armed dead hang in full crimp position on the Medium 4 Finger Pockets. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 hangs resting 1.5 minutes between each.
    2. Repeat previous exercise.
    3. Off-set dead-hang in full crimp position on the Medium 4 Finger Pocket and Shallow 4 Finger Pocket. Hang for 6 seconds, repeat 3 hangs for each arm (6 in total), resting 1 minute between each.
  5. Rest 5-8 minutes
  6. Third set

    1. 90 degree lock off with Jug for one hand and the Deep 4 Finger Pocket for other. Lock off for between 8-10 seconds. 3 reps for each arm (6 in total), resting 2 minutes between each rep.
    2. Off-set pull ups, with Jug for one hand and the Deep 4 Finger Pocket for the other. 2 pull ups for each set and complete 2 sets for each arm (4 in total), resting 1 minute between each.
    3. Leg lifts on Jugs, complete three sets of leg lifts. For each set lift legs up to chest level 6 times. Rest 1 minute between sets.

 


 
Fingerboard aficionados may also want to check this out.
 

One Response

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  1. Prozdp said, on 19 September 2011 at 10:53 pm

    Formidable soir à tous les participants de ce site internet ,

    Pour commencer , donnez-moi l’occasion de vous démontrer mon appréciation pour toutes les très pertinentes infos que j’ai trouvées sur cet excellent forum de discussions .

    Je ne suis pas certaine d’être au bon section mais je n’en ai pas trouvé de meilleur.

    Je vis à Bagotville, ca . J’ai 47 ans et j’éduque 2 super enfants qui sont tous âgés entre 4 ou 14 années (1 est adopté). J’aime beaucoup les animaux de compagnie et je tempte de leur garantir les produits qui leur rendent l’existance plus confortable.

    Merci dès maintenant pour toutes les superbes délibérations qui viendront et je vous remercie de votre compréhension pour mon français moins que parfait: ma langue maternelle est l’anglais et je tempte de m’enseigner mais c’est très complexe !

    Bye

    Carry


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