TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

10 Minute Fingerboard Session

Metolius Wood Grips Fingerboard

Metolius Wood Grips Fingerboard

Overall Programme

This is the session that comes with the board. See for further details.

I haven’t puntered this one down; instead I simply fail to do all of the exercises as specified. I have however standardised Metolius’ terminology, which was a bit inconsistent.

The idea is to do the session in 10 minutes. Each set starts on a minute mark and has either one or two exercises. Once you have done these, you get the luxury of resting for the rest of the minute.

WARNING this one is pumpy!

Warm up first (see the initial warm-up section here).

    1. 20 second dead hang. Deep 4 Finger Pockets.
    1. 10 second dead hang. Deep 3 Finger Pockets.
    2. 3 pull-ups. Sloper.
    1. 15 second L-hang. Jugs.
    1. 5 pull-ups. Deep 4 Finger Pockets.
    2. 30 second dead hang. Shallow 4 Finger Pockets
    1. 30 second bent-arm hang. Medium 4 Finger Pockets.
    1. 5 off-set pull-ups. Top Deep 3 Finger Pocket, bottom Shallow 4 Finger Pocket.
    2. 5 off-set pull-ups. Reverse hands.
    1. 15 second L-hang. 2 Finger Pockets.
    1. 5 pull-ups. Shallow 4 Finger Pocket.
    1. 15 second bent-arm hang. Deep 3 Finger Angled Pockets.
    2. 15 second dead hang. Medium 3 Finger Angled Pockets.
    1. 3 pull-ups. Sloper.


Fingerboard aficionados may also want to check this out.

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  1. […] a change went back to the 10 Minute Fingerboard Session that came with the Metolius Wood Grips board. A very different session to the normal one, as it much […]

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