TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Fingerboard Programme for Punters

Expanding our fingerboard horizons

Our state-of-the-art training facility

I guess I bought and installed my first fingerboard quite some time ago and played about with it on and off. However it was not until February 2008 that I started to use it in a systematic manner. This phase lasted through to mid-March. During this time I stuck to regular sessions and revised my work-out several times to cater for my increasing finger strength.

From mid-March, with both the improving weather and discovering The Arch climbing wall, the fingerboard got put on the back burner. However, after suffering two ankle injuries, the fingerboard became one of the few things that I could do without causing myself further damage. Given this (and the fact that I had identified fingerboard training as a revised 2008 goal), I recommenced sessions in early October 2008 and am glad to say that I have managed to sustain them and made progress. I have also installed a second board now, so that I don’t outgrow the current one too quickly.

It occurred to me recently, that the various versions of increasingly difficult fingerboard sessions that I have been doing might form an overall programme, which could perhaps be of interest to climbers at my level. Accordingly I have brought these all together on this page (and added some of my earlier session from back in February as well).
 

  1. Session first attempted on: 24th February 2008
  2. Session first attempted on: 2nd March 2008
  3. Session first attempted on: 7th March 2008
  4. Session first attempted on: 20th October 2008
  5. Session first attempted on: 27th October 2008
  6. Session first attempted on: 3rd November 2008

 
To mix things up I also occaionally throw in a 10 minute fingerboard session. At present, unlike the sessions above, there are quite a lot of these exercises that I struggle with.

You can track my usage of the above fingerboard sessions via my weekly training diary. Those entries that include fingerboard training may be viewed here.
 
TRNovice – November 2008
 

One Response

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  1. marc said, on 1 April 2011 at 3:58 pm

    very interesting post.. but ii would like to know what is your level in climbing when you wrote this article? like what do you boulder maximum grade and routes? thank you


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