TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Week 85 (27th Oct – 2nd Nov 2008)

Posted in Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 2 November 2008

Current goals may be viewed here.

All climbing training diary entries may be viewed here.

A variety of things led to me not being able to set up an appointment for some one to look at my ankle this week. However, on the advice of Clem at The Arch, I decided not to even try to climb on it and simply stuck to the fingerboard. This led to quite a large improvement and I even resisted the temptation to see how cycling went towards the end of the week. While I’m still a little concerned that I may have done something more serious to myself, it is at least possible that what the right ankle needed most was a total break from climbing, even puntering around on V2s. Let’s hope that I’m right.

Training Diary
Day Commentary Stats
Monday Further upgraded fingerboard sesssion as per here. Increased some reps and reduced the time between reps to 1 minute. Will do at this level one more time and then think about where else I can make it harder.


  • 6a. Last set with LH in Deep 3 Finger Pocket I ended up crimping with my RH rather than holding it open-handed – maybe because of the shorter recovery time.
  • 6c. Leg swings still not as solid as they could be, but then they are the last exercise and I keep upping what goes before, perhaps leaving little energy for these.

Tuesday Rest ankle.
Wednesday Rest ankle.
Thursday Rest ankle.
Friday Repeated fingerboard sesssion as per here. I wouldn’t exactly say that this session was easy, but I clearly need to start thinking about how to make it harder, which is good news.


  • 6c. Leg swings a lot less reliant on momentum, until towards the end of the final set of six. Still room for improvement here.

Saturday Rest ankle.
Sunday Rest ankle

The break from climbing seems to be helping, so I’m going to stick with this for another week and see whether this leads to further improvement before deciding what (if anything) else to do.

Training Summary
Cycling Other Cardio Wall
Sessions (0)
Road: 0 km Running: 0 km V3: 0
MTB: 0 km V4: 0
Total: 0 km V5: 0

Progress against Short-term Goals

No outdoor routes this week.
No cycling due to ankle.
No running due to ankle.
Continued to sustain the fingerboard sessions, which I feel I am progressing with.
No outdoor bouldering this week.

Progress against Medium-term Goals

Rather than being negative about going backwards, I’m going to park these until the ankle hopefully gets better.



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