TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Week 88 (17th – 23rd November 2008)

Posted in Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 22 November 2008

Current goals may be viewed here.

All climbing training diary entries may be viewed here.

Did some indoor climbing for the first time in weeks. No problems at all with routes and only minimal ones with bouldering. Also did a longer (for me) cycle with no real repercussions. Overall a reasonably positive week.
 

Training Diary
Day Commentary Stats
Monday Rest ankle.  
Tuesday My right ankle was feeling a lot better for the full lay-off and so I thought that it was worth trying some climbing. The idea of falling or jumping off of boulder problems was not however terribly appealing and so I spent 3 hours at The Westway top roping and easy leading. A couple of twinges, but no sharp pain and no crunching sensation in my ankle, so a positive result. My fingers are stronger from all the fingerboard sessions and I can hang most things, even the chalk-covered horrors I was climbing on. However, I seem to have forgotten how to move between holds (plus maybe being rather conservative with my ankle) and need to get this back. Top-roped up to F6a (flashed) and led up to F5+ (flashed).  
Wednesday Ankle slightly sore after climbing and then more so after a 6.5 km walk. Need to make sure that I don’t rush back into things too quickly I guess.  
Thursday Rest ankle.  
Friday 2 hours bouldering at The Arch. First bouldering session since I decided to give the ankle a total rest. No pain or crunching in the joint, but it did start swelling up after a while, so called it a day early. Still paranoid about falling :-(. I found it really easy to hold small holds (a result of the fingerboard sessions I guess), but harder to move between them (both not fully trusting the ankle and a lack of general climbing conditioning). V3 x 2
V4 x 0
V5 x 0
Saturday 24 km MTB (trail) cycle round Richmond Park – have lost quite a bit of fitness, but it wasn’t too bad. Ankle seemed to survive with just a bit of grumbling.  
Sunday Rest ankle.  

 
More of the same next week, a continued gentle reintroduction to my normal routine and see how the ankle copes with it. So far, so good!
 

Training Summary
Cycling Other Cardio Wall
Sessions (1 bouldering, 1 routes)
Road: 0 km Running: 0 km V3: 2
MTB: 24 km     V4: 0
Total: 24 km     V5: 0

 
Progress against Short-term Goals

No outdoor routes this week.
Didn’t hit the 40 km per week goal, but was nevertheless nice to do 24 km in one outing with no adverse impact on the ankle..
Although I am somewhat warily climbing and cycling, running still seems some way off.
No fingerboard sessions, but got to the wall twice: once routes, once bouldering, again without too bad results anklewise.
No outdoor bouldering this week.

 
Progress against Medium-term Goals

Parked for the present due to the ankle.
   
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Week 87 (10th – 16th Nov 2008)

Posted in Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 16 November 2008

Current goals may be viewed here.

All climbing training diary entries may be viewed here.

My third week of ankle rest. It has improved further – I have even been skipping down escallators on the Tube. I have tweaked it a few times, but none of these have led to a major flare-up, so maybe it is finally getting better. Given this, I have shelved the medical option for the present. Dropped the fingerboard sessions because I was rather occupied dealing with some other stuff, will pick these back up next week. Had an exploratory cycle as well, which seemed to go OK. For the first time in a while I begin to feel somewhat optimistic about my injury getting better.
 

Training Diary
Day Commentary Stats
Monday Rest ankle.
Tuesday Rest ankle.
Wednesday Rest ankle.
Thursday Rest ankle.
Friday Exploratory 16km road cycle, average speed a rather slow 23.2 kmph on light cyclocross tyres, but then I was mostly seeing how the ankle held up. It was OK when cycling with no twinges at all. It’s a bit sore now, but that is only to be expected I guess.
Saturday Ankle was a bit sore from cycling, but managed a 9 km walk with only a couple of twinges.
Sunday Rest ankle. No apparent adverse effects from the previous two days, which is good.

 
Well ticked the box of doing some mild cycling, will try to get back to my minimum of 40 km per week next week. Also want to work some climbing back into the mix.
 

Training Summary
Cycling Other Cardio Wall
Sessions (0)
Road: 16 km Running: 0 km V3: 0
MTB: 0 km V4: 0
Total: 16 km V5: 0

 
Progress against Short-term Goals

No outdoor routes this week.
No cycling due to ankle.
No running due to ankle.
Well I did at least two fingerboard sessions for the previous five weeks, so I probably needed a rest anyway. I don’t feel too bad about this.
No outdoor bouldering this week.

 
Progress against Medium-term Goals

Parked for the present due to the ankle.

 

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Week 86 (3rd – 9th Nov 2008)

Posted in Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 9 November 2008

Current goals may be viewed here.

All climbing training diary entries may be viewed here.

My second week of ankle rest. It is a bit better again, but still a world away from 100%. I have started the process of getting someone to take a look at it and hopefully will be able to get this done sooner rather than later.
 

Training Diary
Day Commentary Stats
Monday Further upgraded fingerboard session as per here. Reduced the sizes of holds on two exercises. May need to do this session a few times before moving on again.

Exceptions:

  • 2c. A bit shaky on these newly upgraded sets, particularly the later ones with the right hand on the larger hold.
  • 6b. Again rather shaky on these new exercises, the second pull-up with the right hand on the larger holds was week for the second two sets.

Tuesday Rest ankle.
Wednesday Rest ankle.
Thursday Repeated upgraded fingerboard session as per here. Still rather hard in places.

Exceptions:

  • 2c. Still a bit shaky on these sets, particularly the later ones with the right hand on the larger hold.
  • 6b. Still rather shaky on these exercises, the second pull-up with the right hand on the larger holds was week for the second two sets.

Friday Rest ankle.
Saturday Rest ankle.
Sunday Rest ankle.

 
Might try some gentle cycling next week and will see what a specialist has to say about my ankle.
 

Training Summary
Cycling Other Cardio Wall
Sessions (0)
Road: 0 km Running: 0 km V3: 0
MTB: 0 km V4: 0
Total: 0 km V5: 0

 
Progress against Short-term Goals

No outdoor routes this week.
No cycling due to ankle.
No running due to ankle.
Have kept up with at least two fingerboard sessions each week for a while. I’m now at a set of exercises where I find a few of them quite tough. So if I can step it up further than this, I will definitely feel that I am seeing strength gains.
No outdoor bouldering this week.

 
Progress against Medium-term Goals

Parked for the present due to the ankle.

 

Week 85 (27th Oct – 2nd Nov 2008)

Posted in Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 2 November 2008

Current goals may be viewed here.

All climbing training diary entries may be viewed here.

A variety of things led to me not being able to set up an appointment for some one to look at my ankle this week. However, on the advice of Clem at The Arch, I decided not to even try to climb on it and simply stuck to the fingerboard. This led to quite a large improvement and I even resisted the temptation to see how cycling went towards the end of the week. While I’m still a little concerned that I may have done something more serious to myself, it is at least possible that what the right ankle needed most was a total break from climbing, even puntering around on V2s. Let’s hope that I’m right.
 

Training Diary
Day Commentary Stats
Monday Further upgraded fingerboard sesssion as per here. Increased some reps and reduced the time between reps to 1 minute. Will do at this level one more time and then think about where else I can make it harder.

Exceptions:

  • 6a. Last set with LH in Deep 3 Finger Pocket I ended up crimping with my RH rather than holding it open-handed – maybe because of the shorter recovery time.
  • 6c. Leg swings still not as solid as they could be, but then they are the last exercise and I keep upping what goes before, perhaps leaving little energy for these.

Tuesday Rest ankle.
Wednesday Rest ankle.
Thursday Rest ankle.
Friday Repeated fingerboard sesssion as per here. I wouldn’t exactly say that this session was easy, but I clearly need to start thinking about how to make it harder, which is good news.

Exceptions:

  • 6c. Leg swings a lot less reliant on momentum, until towards the end of the final set of six. Still room for improvement here.

Saturday Rest ankle.
Sunday Rest ankle

 
The break from climbing seems to be helping, so I’m going to stick with this for another week and see whether this leads to further improvement before deciding what (if anything) else to do.
 

Training Summary
Cycling Other Cardio Wall
Sessions (0)
Road: 0 km Running: 0 km V3: 0
MTB: 0 km V4: 0
Total: 0 km V5: 0

 
Progress against Short-term Goals

No outdoor routes this week.
No cycling due to ankle.
No running due to ankle.
Continued to sustain the fingerboard sessions, which I feel I am progressing with.
No outdoor bouldering this week.

 
Progress against Medium-term Goals

Rather than being negative about going backwards, I’m going to park these until the ankle hopefully gets better.

 

Monthly Cycling Summary (October 2008)

Posted in Monthly Cycling Summary, Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 1 November 2008

All monthly cycling summaries may be viewed by clicking here.

2008 Cycling Summary (as at Oct)

2008 Cycling Summary (as at Oct)

October cycling was curtailed by injury.
 

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