TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Week 84 (20th – 26th Oct 2008)

Posted in Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 26 October 2008

Current goals may be viewed here.

All climbing training diary entries may be viewed here.

Right ankle is still crook (more than 30 days after initially injuring it, which is not a very good sign). I didn’t get round to doing anything about it last week for a number of reasons, but have to soon as this is verging on the ridiculous now. Kept up the fingerboard sessions and had one abortive trip to the wall; but no other exercise sadly.

Training Diary
Day Commentary Stats
Monday Upgraded fingerboard sesssion as per here. Still not that hard, but it probably makes sense to progress gradually to avoid pulley problems. Will stick at this level for at least this week and maybe next.


  • 6a. Last set with LH in Deep 3 Finger Pocket was a bit shaky.
  • 6b. Last set with LH in Deep 3 Finger Pocket was also a bit shaky.
  • 6c. Final set of leg swings was rather relying on momentum, need to be more smooth and in control.

Tuesday 2.5 hours “bouldering” at The Arch. Again a reasonably careful session ankle-wise. Pretty frustrating not being comfortable more than 1m up and not being able to push or twist on my right ankle. Rest doesn’t seem to have helped and ignoring it doesn’t either, so I guess I had better start thinking about doing something else. V3 x 2
V4 x 1
V5 x 0
Wednesday Rest ankle.
Thursday Rest ankle.
Friday Upgraded fingerboard session as per here. Much more solid than my first go at this new (admittedly still pretty low) level.


  • 6b. Final pull-up with LH in Deep 3 Finger Pocket was improved but still not 100%.

Saturday Rest ankle.
Sunday For a change went back to the 10 Minute Fingerboard Session that came with the Metolius Wood Grips board. A very different session to the normal one, as it much quicker and much pumpier. I always used to struggle with this (one of the reasons that I moved to doing the Moonclimbing-inspired session instead). I still did struggle with this, non-puntered-down session, but it was a vast improvement on before.


  • Overall. I took 15 minutes rather than 10 – it was too pumpy and I needed to rest longer between sets, particularly from the middle to end.
  • 4b. Hung for 15 seconds only and on the Deep 4 Finger Pockets.
  • 5a. Hung for 15 seconds only.
  • 6a. Last pull-up was very weak.
  • 6b. Last two pull-ups were both very weak.
  • 7a. Hung for desired time, but on Deep 3 Finger Pockets.
  • 8a. Did 5 pull-ups, but on Medium 4 Finger Pockets. Last two were very weak.
  • 9b. Did on the Deep 3 Finger Angled Pockets – repeating 9a.

Aside from keeping up the fingerboard (and maybe trying a little light road cycling to see how I go), the aim next week is to get some one to take a look at my ankle.

Training Summary
Cycling Other Cardio Wall
Sessions (1)
Road: 0 km Running: 0 km V3: 2
MTB: 0 km V4: 1
Total: 0 km V5: 0

Progress against Short-term Goals

No outdoor routes this week.
No cycling due to ankle.
No running due to ankle.
Sustained the fingerboard sessions and reintroduced an old one. Nice to have something positive to report for a change.
No outdoor bouldering this week.

Progress against Medium-term Goals

Still going backwards :-(.


2 Responses

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  1. Deacon said, on 27 October 2008 at 6:42 am

    Hi Peter,
    I’m a fellow ukc user and came across your fingerboard training plan on the weekly training review. Hope you don’t mind but tried your routine last night and found it at just the right level of difficulty for me ( I added a 20 second sloper deadhang to the middle of the routine and three sloper pullups to finish). I found that the 10 minute metolius session was only possible if I extended the rests (took me 40 minutes to do the full workout).
    Anyway hope you dont mind me looking at your training diary and good luck with the training.

  2. trnovice said, on 27 October 2008 at 11:30 am

    Glad that it was of some help to you – good luck training 🙂

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