TRNovice’s Climbing Training Diary

Week 82 (6th – 12th Oct 2008)

Posted in Weekly Training Diary by Peter James Thomas on 12 October 2008

Current goals may be viewed here.

All climbing training diary entries may be viewed here.

Tried to pick-up on the cardio this week, but still rather limited by the ankle. Was surprised how well I could do on the fingerboard after a long lay-off. I started by virtually completing a session that it had previously taken quite some time to build up to. Second time round I did all of the sets that I didn’t quite finish on the first session, but then had weird things happening in my ankle *sigh*. Nevertheless I guess I still have some residual finger-strength from earlier in the year. This was demonstarted later in the week by sticking some pretty marginal crimps on a roof problem in The Peak.
 

Training Diary
Day Commentary Stats
Monday
  1. 20km bike ride, average speed 24.5 kmph on MTB tyres, which I hadn’t got round to changing. First bike ride since a) being ill and b) spraining my second ankle. Ankle is a bit sore, but otherwise no ill-affects.
  2. Fingerboard session as per here. Exceptions: 4b. Only held last two hangs for 4-5 seconds, rather than full 6; 6b. Last two sets of pull-ups with left hand on jug were closer to 1.5 than 2.
Road 20 km
Tuesday Rest / Bike maintenance. Ankle a bit stiff/sore.  
Wednesday Rest  
Thursday
  1. 20km bike ride, average speed 25.8 kmph on light cyclocross tyres. Ankle still a bit sore :-(.
  2. Fingerboard session as per here. Exceptions: Did everything up to 4b, but then my @#%$ing older ankle injury (the left one) started playing up. Felt like something inside was caught over something else that it really shouldn’t be. Back on the ice pack :-(.
Road 20 km
Friday A rather topsy-turvy day for several reasons, which saw me getting little done. However, the left ankle seems to have calmed down, it was feeling most odd the previous evening.  
Saturday Drove to The Peak. 4.5 hours at The Climbing Works. Didn’t climb too much that I couldn’t then down climb, but a good session nevertheless. However managed to aggravate the right (i.e. newer) ankle injury somehow. Also didn’t keep track of grades.  
Sunday Had a look round a wet Rubicon, lots to play on there some drier time. Mostly spotted at Cratcliffe and Robin Hood’s Stride. However repeated a Font 6b (sans top-out as my ankle was having none of it) and, more importantly, stuck the first few moves of Razor Roof (Font 6c). I have never been able to pull over the lip before, so doing this whilst injured was a sign of improved strength. Have to get back on it when (if?) my ankles improve. Nice to be out in the sun on (mostly) dry rock, even if my own efforts were somewhat curtailed.  

 
I’m pretty fed up about the ankle problems, some rest and maybe physio is in order.
 

Training Summary
Cycling Other Cardio Wall
Sessions (1)
Road: 40 km Running: 0 km V3: not known
MTB: 0 km     V4: not known
Total: 40 km     V5: not known

 
Progress against Short-term Goals

No routes this week, only bouldering.
Ticked the objective of at least 40km cycling for the first week since the ankle injury – would be nice to sustain this.
The idea of running on the ankle(s) seems very unappealing at present.
Ticked recommencing fingerboard sessions – again now need to sustain this.
Repeated the harder bits of a V4 (with no topping out due to the ankle). Also got a V3 (again with no top-out). I know neither really count, but I am grateful for small mercies at present.

 
Progress against Medium-term Goals

None :-(.

 

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  1. […] ankle swollen from the weekend, so no prospect of any cardio training for a few […]


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